We leave the ship today for an overnight trip to Luxor, Egypt.  Our bus joined the group of coaches with a guarded escort to make the 3 ½ hour drive to Luxor from the port of Safaga.

Click here for the April 6th People Picture Gallery.

Click here for the April 6th Antiquities Picture Gallery.

Click here for the April 7th People Picture Gallery.

Click here for the April 7th Antiquities Picture Gallery.

As this is our first stop in Egypt, we’ll provide a little background information.  Egypt is located at the northeast corner of the African continent surrounded by Syria, Israel, Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Sudan and Libya.  It’s political history, including what is happening here currently, is complex and often violent.  They’ve had a turbulent history both with outside invaders as well as multiple civil wars.

This is one of the most ancient places on earth.  Civilization started around 10,000 BC (although some say 25,000 BC) and the 1st Dynasty of Kings started around 3,100 BC.  The most well known pharaohs are King Tut-ankh-amen (King Tut) and Ramses.  It turns out there were actually 11 Pharaohs named Ramses …the one from the time of Moses was supposedly Ramses II.

The Nile River runs the length of Egypt and it is the longest river in the world.  It is over 4,000 miles long – stretching from the Mediterranean Sea all the way through the African continent.  The source of the Nile River are its’ two primary tributaries, the Blue Nile and the White Nile.  The existence of the Nile River is the primary reason Egypt has risen to power and prestige throughout history.

An interesting fact about Egypt is that they have approximately 23 million land mines buried in the western part of the country. The area along the north coast was mined between 1940 and 1943 involving Britain and its allies (including Egyptian forces) fighting German and Italian forces for control of North Africa. The areas to the east, including the Sinai Peninsula were mined between 1956 and 1973 due to hostilities between Egypt and Israel. Mined areas represent 22% of the total surface of Egypt.

Our first stop in Luxor was the Luxor Temple.  The city of Luxor, home to approx. 500,000 people, was known as the ancient city of Thebes, was founded in 1,400 BC.  For centuries Thebes was the capital of the known world.  This area is basically an open-air museum, with temples located in the middle of the city.  It’s strange driving along city streets and going past ancient temples and columns.  The Luxor Temple was built by a king called Amenophis III and later expanded by Ramses II.

Next we went to check-in at our hotel, the Sonesta Luxor, which has the most high-tech bathroom we’ve ever seen!  The shower was like a space ship and the toilet was more complicated than any other I’ve seen!

Back on-board the coaches we went to see the light and sound show at the Karnak Temple.  This temple is extensive and it was impressive to see it at night…although it was dangerous (to say the least) because the ground is uneven and there are rocks and things that can trip you everywhere!

The show took us through the main part of the temple and gave us the history of the area.  We ended up in a large, open theatre where we got the rest of the story and were treated to a beautiful full moon.

After the show we took the buses back to the hotel where we had a nice buffet dinner outside in an area on the bank of the Nile.

The following morning we were up at 7:00 am for a quick buffet breakfast and in the buses again by 8:00 am.  Paul and Kathy were also in Cairo on a private tour and Paul had invited us to join him on a hot air balloon ride he was doing.  We opted not to go a.) we’d have to get up at 4:00 am and could possibly miss our day with the organized group; and b.) Judy and Franco had done this before in Luxor and had a bit of a challenge with their hot air balloon “crashing” (they weren’t hurt).

So instead, we joined the group and crossed the Nile to the west bank to visit the Valley of the Kings.  The early Egyptians always buried their dead on the west side of the Nile as they believed life was created from the east and death follows to the west.

The Valley of the Kings is situated under a naturally occurring pyramid shaped mountain and is home to 62 Tombs, all deep underground, dug into the limestone hillside in Qurna.  The most famous tomb discovered here is that of King Tut.  The reason it is famous is because it wasn’t found until 1922 and it is one of the only tombs found completely intact.  Most Tombs were robbed over thousands of years with few remnants.

There were LOTS of persistent peddlers and it was amazing, when you ignore them, how quickly their price would fall from $100 dollars to $10 dollars!  We found out that the stuff they sell at these tourist locations is primarily made in China.

Next we did a photo stop at Queen Hatshepsut’s Temple and then a drive-by of Medinet Habu and Colossi of Memnon.  After, we made our way back to the hotel to have lunch and check-out and then we were back at the Karnak temple to visit it during the day.  This is one of the most impressive temples we’ve seen.  It is a massive complex of ruined temples, chapels and other buildings of various dates.  The area was built over 2,000 years by various kings with each one adding on and making bigger and better improvements.

During the Egyptian Revolution of 2011, there were rumors that attacks were planned against monuments including Karnak Temple.  This prompted authorities to erect barriers and guard it with tanks.  Luckily no damage was done in Luxor, although the Egyptian Museum in Cairo was attached and some damage was done inside that building.

You see a lot of hieroglyphics throughout the tombs and temples.  I didn’t realize that in 1799 a key was found in Northern Egypt that led to the translation of hieroglyphics.  This key is called the “Rosetta Stone”.  The stone shows three scripts: the upper text is Ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs, the middle portion Demotic script, and the lowest Ancient Greek.  Because it presents essentially the same text in all three scripts, it provided the key to the modern understanding of Egyptian hieroglyphs.  The original stone came into British possession under the Capitulation of Alexandria. Transported to London, it has been on public display at the British Museum since 1802. It is the most-visited object in the British Museum.

Luxor is filled with loads of interesting stuff…by the end of the 2nd day visiting tombs and temples our heads were full and we were happy to once again be back on-board the Voyager.

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  • April 11, 2012 - 6:38 am

    Cheryl - Love the photo of Margaret and the back ground. I want to be able to take a photo like that penguin! BeautifulReplyCancel

  • April 11, 2012 - 6:42 am

    Cheryl - I’ve been meaning to ask you. Do you take notes or how do you remember everything you share. So much information and so interesting. How do you take photos and focus on all the information you are taking in? So interesting. Thanks for all of your hard work posting this information.ReplyCancel

  • April 12, 2012 - 7:34 am

    Wayne - You have to love a guy with a two donkey powered cart. Some guys have everything. Is Donkey power better than horse power?ReplyCancel

We are happy to report that we had three straight sea days, which means we caught up on all the things we can’t do when we have ports to explore.  The highlight of this area is the excitement that comes from knowing we are in pirate territory here in the Indian Ocean, and specifically in the Gulf of Aden.

By the end of 2011, pirates managed to seize only 4 ships off of the coast of Somalia; 18 fewer than the 26 they had captured in the past two previous years. They also attempted unsuccessful attacks on 52 other vessels.  As of March 28, 2012, the pirates were holding 9 large ships with an estimated 236 hostages.  Yikes!

Today there are around twenty-five military vessels from the EU and Nato countries, including the USA, China, Russia, India and Japan that patrol an area the size of Western Europe.

For extra caution, Regent has a group of security personnel including snipers on our ship.  There is also a Long Range Acoustic Device (LRAD) on the deck in the back of the ship that can be used to dissuade any potential attackers.

The Captain told us, after we were out of danger, that we had been tailed by two separate pirate boats over the past few days.  One of them followed the ship for 2 hours!

The crew performed special drills and we had instructions to close our drapes at night and they turned off exterior lighting.  If they were to sound a “code orange” we are supposed to come in from any outdoor areas, and for a “code red” we are supposed to hit the deck (literally)!

Luckily we didn’t have any closer call than just being followed.  Pirates usually don’t target cruise ships, but last month, the Costa Allegra lost power after a fire in its generator room. No one was injured, but the blaze left the ship adrift at sea in this area.  Luckily they were towed to safety…but this may have sparked interest from pirates to prey on larger ships.  You would think it would get complicated if they have to deal with a 1,000 hostages.  Luckily we don’t have to worry about that any more!

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As we look forward to the highlight ports of our trip, namely Egypt and Israel, we have one more stop in Oman before three sea days and then non-stop fun….well, honestly, long and exhausting tours of very interesting spots.

But before we get to those bucket list places we go to Salalah, Oman.   Like us, maybe you haven’t heard about it, but you are about to!

Click here for the detailed Salalah Photo Gallery.

This verdant part of Oman is about 600 miles to the South of Muscat.  It has the benefit of being in the path of the monsoons that pass through about four months each year.  Salalah becomes lush and green during this period.  That period hadn’t come before my tour today, however.

Other than the traffic circle parks, banana plantations (plenty of them) and thousands of coconut palms there was not much green to be seen.  We didn’t see much severe poverty, saw plenty of fairly normal strip malls along the roads and both old and new housing including large apartment buildings.  The roads were modern and in very good shape.  The Sultan, who has many palaces, has chosen Salalah to be the location of his summer palace.  Once again, it’s good to be King!

Today we are taking a bus tour called Arabian Heritage and Margaret wisely decided to pass.  Not I.  Seated in my typical seat towards the back of the bus I got out my MacBook and started writing this post as soon as we departed.  The tour guide was a dark complected Arab who had on traditional dress including the little cap.  I had planned on getting one of these outfits in Oman but have now passed on that.  I’ll have to be something other than an Arab Muslim for Halloween next year.

The guide’s English was strained at best but all the people past the first five rows were spared it because we couldn’t hear a word he was saying.  Despite trying, it was finally declared hopeless and we relegated ourselves to hearing him drone on talking to the first five rows in the background for the next four hours.  Given that, the rest of the info in this post came from my online research.

The first stop was Bin Ali’s Tomb following a one hour and fifteen minute drive.  There wasn’t much along the drive.  It looked like the Palm Springs area before all the development (I actually saw that).  There were large hills/mountains in the distance to our left and ocean to our right.  Bin Ali was sort of the patron saint for this Dhofar area.  He was the primary driver for the people here being converted to Islam and was apparently a descendant of a brother-in-law of the prophet Mohammed.

After a 50 minute drive, out next stop was the Samhuram Archeological site.  In the 3rd – 5th century AD this was a mixed-use residential/business development where traders lived on the second floor and their businesses were on the first floor.  It was strategically located for trade and was even more popular because this Dhofar region was the prime source of frankincense.  The Queen of Sheba was involved in this area to some extent but I haven’t figured out how.  It is now an active archeological site that is still in the process of being reconstructed.  Some interesting aspects of the site was someone was building a large dhow from scratch near the water down the hill from the structure. There were also a fair number of birds, some of which looked like large cranes.

The village of Taqah was our next destination.  This small city has a castle, which was the purpose of our stop.  It was a two story building which was built in the early 1800’s as a private residence and was then co-opted into an administration center and governor’s residence until 1991 at which point it was nicely restored.  There are many rooms and they were all well labeled and signs and displays informed you of their way of life.  Samples of how the women dressed, their weapons and their herding and farming tools were all in abundance.  You could even go upstairs and look out the viewing areas where they used to shoot their enemies.  The living spaces had wood floors with the traditional style pillows on the floor…no chairs.

Next we drove along a very nice beach that was completely deserted…although I’m not sure what that means when the beach is in the desert?

After turning inland we drove through an area saturated with banana trees until we arrived in Montaza, which must be the banana and coconut stand capital of the Dhofar region.  Here we got, get ready for it, a coconut!  The large, green and still in its’ husk, young type of coconut.  The owner was a master with his small machete and expertly chopped it three times to expose the top, then a quick chop to cut off enough to stick a straw in!  It was amazing how much water was inside…filled right to the top!  I also got to try the white meat from a smaller, brown and mature coconut.

A nice Portuguese couple, that didn’t speak much English, sat in the very last row.  In the end, our renegade group in the back never heard a word that the tour guide said the entire trip but I don’t think it mattered much as we had a good time anyway.

 

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  • April 6, 2012 - 7:08 am

    Cheryl - Love the photo’s combining very old culture with the technology of today! My thoughts are always the same… What an amazing trip! Your comments take us on the journey with you. Thank you so much for all the time you put into writing and editing this along with your photos.ReplyCancel

  • June 27, 2012 - 12:02 pm

Margaret is still feeling under the weather so she decided to rest up again.  It turns out there is something going around the ship…a dry hacking cough and congestion. She is trying to get over it before we hit our stride in Egypt…when we have multiple, back-to-back 12+ hour days traveling to some of the most interesting places we’ll see on this cruise.

I had breakfast and lunch in La Veranda and worked on the blog the rest of the day.  It was a formal optional night and the Captain’s Welcome party and we were supposed to have dinner with Paul and Kathy.

I called them and said that we wouldn’t be able to make it.  A few minutes later, Paul came to the door with a little blue Angry Bird plush toy that made Angry Bird noises.  That cheered Margaret up!  If you didn’t know, Margaret is a huge Angry Bird fan and probably still in the top 10% in the world of Angry Bird players.  She’s been trying to get her scores up in the latest incarnation called Space (as in outer space).

Two more movies, including Tom Cruise’s latest Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocal, that was partly filmed in Dubai and includes many scenes shot at the Burj Kahlifa building we had just ascended.

I decided to stay in the room and have dinner with Margaret so our butler brought the menu from Compass Rose and we both had nice duck dinners.  Margaret crashed and I did some more blog work and then fell asleep at 10:30 pm with Fox News Sunday on in the background.  We’re starting to get used to seeing Fox shows at odd hours.  I guess we’ll just have to record everything until we get acclimated after we get home in a few weeks.

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We arrived back in Muscat today.  It seems that it should be Groundhog Day but instead it is the day before April Fools day.  And, we aren’t kidding, we are really back where we were a few days ago.  After barely hearing about Oman for our entire lives we will be there twice in a week!

Margaret is under the weather so I decided to stay in with her and try to help nurse her back to health.  I’d like to think that I helped but she was still not feeling well enough to go to dinner.  I did consecutive stretch and spinning classes and a light breakfast and brought Margaret back her morning coffee.  The rest of the day I worked on the blog and we watched a couple movies in the room.

I really don’t mean to demean Muscat in the blog title.  The more research I do on Muscat the more I see that there are some really positive things about Muscat and the entire state of Oman including hundreds of miles of pristine beaches.  In fact, from Muscat north it is almost solid white sand beach until you get to the UAE.  Lots of potential here.

Last night, as we were walking across the pool deck to the La Veranda restaurant and we noticed a couple that had been on the Machu Picchu experience with us.  We waved them down and had a quick chat with Chi and Yvonne.  We got their room number and agreed to have cocktails and dinner the next night.

Now, that’s tonight so we decided that I would go by myself.  We also invited Judy and Franco to have drinks.  I had a good time with them reliving old times but decided to have dinner with Margaret in the room.  After a nice dinner served by our butler in the room we watched a movie and I worked on the blog pictures.

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